SKIN CONCERNS
Here at Skin Fitness we strive to help all our clients with there skin concerns as much as possible, we offer a range of treatments , products and programmes to make sure you achieve the best results possible. Come in store for a free skin consult with one of our experienced therapists today and see how we can help you. Our skin is the most important organ of the body and it is important to give it 100% care.
ACNE:
Appearance:
Acne is the most common skin problem, it happens to almost everyone, and usually begins with skin congestion or commonly known as comedones. When comedones become infected, it can break out and cause acne, open pores and eventually scars. Lesions commonly seen are pimples, inflamed breakouts, severe acne, acne vulgaris, pustules, nodules, cysts, acne cysts, comedones and papules.
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What’s Happening:
Comedones or blackheads and whiteheads are the first lesion of acne in non-inflammatory form. Acne happens when the blockage inside pores becomes anaerobic; and hence promotes the growth of bacteria Propionibacterium acnes (bacteria P.acnes) within. This infection results the skin becomes inflamed, heat, swollen, pain and red.
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Causes:
The exact causes of acne are unknown; a combination of factors can predispose a person to develop it. It is important to remember that acne has both internal and external causes, here are some important factors we need to understand:-
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When blackheads and whiteheads become inflamed, they can break and cause acnes |
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Whiteheads are more likely lead to the red inflammation. |
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Bacteria P.acnes (bacteria Propionibacterium acnes) |
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Bacteria P.acnes, the regular resident in all skin types; it’s part of the skin natural sebum maintenance system that protects the skin from being invaded by harmful bacteria. It uses sebum as nutrient for growth. |
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When sebum is trapped in the follicles, it forms an anaerobic environment which promotes the growth of bacteria P.acnes |
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Bacteria P.acnes produce chemicals (free fatty acids) that alter the composition of the sebum, which makes it more irritating and causes inflammation |
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Inflammation |
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When body encounters unwanted bacteria (the over production of bacteria P.acnes), it sends an army of white blood cells to attack the intruders. This process is called chemotaxis, an inflammatory response which causes acne to become red, swollen and painful |
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Internal causes – hormones and genetics |
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Hormones:- |
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Acne normally begins at puberty, when the body begins to produce hormone called androgen. |
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Androgen may over stimulate the sebaceous glands to produce excessive sebum |
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In adulthood, androgen is also responsible for acne flare-ups associated with the menstrual cycle or pregnancy. |
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Genetics:- |
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Acne might in part is a genetic or inherited disease. |
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Twins that develop from one fertilized egg, if one twin had acne, 97% of the other co-twins had acne as well. |
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80% of acne sufferers had a sibling similarly afflicted, and in 60% one or both parents had acne, whilst growing up. |
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Improper skin care routine |
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Poor cleansing after the use of greasy or petrochemical based skin care products |
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Insufficient sleep |
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It contributes to hormonal imbalance and irregular production of sebum |
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Can lead to metabolic imbalances which turns the healthy acidic skin into alkaline condition, an alkaline skin is prone to skin problems. |
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Other environmental factors such as over exposure to the sun, air pollution, high humidity and etc. |
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8. 9. |
Squeezing or picking at acne may result in skin irritation and inflammation. It is proven that the GUT and the skin are directly linked. Anxiety, stress, diet all play havoc on your digestive system. A healthy, well balanced, properly functioning gut is the first step to clearer skin. We need to identify the cause of gut problems and go from there.
Nutrients for healthy skin There are a number of nutrients found in everyday foods that are known to promote a healthy body – and therefore healthy skin. Get wise to these substances, and you’ll increase your chances of conquering your acne.
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About Acne:
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Level 1 acne |
Level 2 acne |
Level 3 acne |
Level 4 acne |
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Appearance |
Blackheads Whiteheads |
A solid, dome-shaped, flat-topped lesion which is slightly elevate above the skin's surface. |
A fragile, blister-like, pus-filled and dome-shaped lesion. |
Nodule: like a papule, a solid, dome-shaped or irregularly-shaped lesion. |
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Sizes |
Smallest among 4 levels of acne |
Varying in size from a pinhead to 0.5 cm |
Greater than 0.5cm and not greater than 1 cm in diameter |
Nodule: greater than 1 cm, smaller than cyst. |
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Pus-filled |
No |
No |
No |
Nodule: No |
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Inflammation |
Non inflammatory |
Mild inflammation |
Mild inflammation |
Severe inflammation |
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Scarring |
No without squeezing |
No without picking or squeezing |
No without picking or squeezing |
Yes. |
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If left untreated this problem may further develop to:-
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• Over usage of harsh acne treatment or oil control products |
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• Squeezing and picking on acne lesion leads to tissue damage |
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• Over usage of harsh acne treatment or oil control products |
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Treatment:
To treat this condition we need to combine salon treatments and homecare. You should NOT perform and stimulating treatments on inflammed breakout - NO microdermabrasion! Max 7 is so so good for these skins. A series of peels and homecare will give fast impressive results.
For ultimate results.
Step 1. Recommend your client the suitable homecare products, Cleanser, Vitamin A(night), Vitamin C(day) serum and moisturiser. An enzymatic peel is also great, NO abrasive or exfoliants with granules! Go over causes; diet, sleep, recreational drugs (stimulants play havoc on the gut) etc
Step 2. Once client has been using appropriate home care for 10 days get them in for a series of peels (at least 6, you may need more). Followed directly after peel with max 7 or high Frequency.
Step 3. Once inflammation is cleared you may begin on microdermabrasion to treat scarring and blackheads. If you use micro when skin is still inflammed, you may spread!
Step 4. A month after your client's microdermabrasion course get your client in for an hour facial with Vitamin C enhancer.
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Homecare:
Acne usually begins with comedones (blackheads and whiteheads). Start preventing acne by solving skin congestion.
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1. Proper skin care routine, choose products that are non-comedogenic and free from:-
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Information on:
AHA/BHA Treatments
AHA/BHA treatments which works to exfoliate accumulation of dead skin cells, unclog pores, improve circulation and aid in the natural process of skin cell regeneration. AHA/BHA treatments are highly effective and suitable for anyone needing a instant radiant and smooth skin complexion. There is only one BHA (beta hydroxy acid) and that is salicylic acid, but there are a variety of AHAs. The five major types of AHAs that show up in skin-care products are glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, and tartaric acids. Of these, the most commonly used and most effective AHAs are glycolic and lactic acids. Both of these have the ability to penetrate the skin, plus they have the most accumulated research on their functionality and benefit for skin. Combining these treatments with the use of Vitamin A at home gives ultimate results, because exfoliants such as AHAs and BHA primarily affect the surface of the skin (epidermis) or the lining of the pore by actually ungluing or dissolving layers of skin cells. In contrast, retinoids affects the lower layers of skin (dermis), where new skin cells are produced. Retinoids actually communicate with a skin cell as it is being formed, telling it to develop normally instead of developing as a sun-damaged or genetically malformed skin cell.
Benefits
- Re-texture the skin
- Stimulate cell renewal for a healthier skin layer
- Natural skin brightener and softener
- Anti inflammatory, anti bacterial, anti microbial
- Tone and improve skin smoothes
The difference between AHA and BHA's
- AHA (glycolic acid usually) exfoliates the surface layers of your skin...clears away dead skin cells that can stick to sebum and clog pores and generally give your skin a dull appearance.
- BHA (salycic acid) exfoliates the actual pore, meaning it loosens all the "junk" in them so the bacteria can be zapped easier by topicals such as benzoyl peroxide.
Together, the combo of AHA/BHA and BP has been an unbeatable combo for my very mild acne.
MAX 7 Treatments
Max7 alleviates acne and oily skin using a scientific process that applies seven wavelengths within the visible light spectrum to send regulated light into the dermal layer, setting off a frenzy of cellular activity to produce softer, clearer, more youthful looking skin.
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Common Questions:
Propionibacterium acne is a major inhabitant of adult human skin, where it resides within sebaceous follicles, usually as a harmless commensal although it has been implicated in acne vulgaris formation.
AGEING:
Appearance:
Fine lines, wrinkles, sagging skin, skin thinning, skin thickening, fragile skin.
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What’s Happening:
Aging is a natural and continuous biological process, and skin inevitably changes with age. In the case of beauty industry, the word aging means dermal aging or simply aging skin. Dermal aging is a type of physical aging, it is caused by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors.
Intrinsic factors progress as a consequence of growing older and altered skin cell function results in fine lines, wrinkles, skin thinning, decreased skin ability in wound healing, and an increased susceptibility to wounds that fails to heal. Whereas extrinsic factor is an aging process caused by radical action, stress, ultraviolet rays and other environmental. It is characterized by skin thickening, rough texture, coarse wrinkles and age spots.
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Causes:
No one has figured out how to stop the aging attributed to intrinsic factors, but there are ways to prevent the extrinsic factors which hasten the aging process.
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Photo aging |
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Some dermatologists suggest that as much as 90% of skin problems associated with aging are the result of too much sun exposure. Besides being the cause of skin cancers and skin pigmentation UV radiation causes premature ageing by thinning the epidermis (the top layer of skin) as well as causing breakdown of collagen. A good sunscreen is an imperative in the prevention of premature ageing. |
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It breaks down the collagen and elastin, and interferes with its new production. |
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It acts as a turbo charge for the production of melanocytes in sun exposed area. |
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Free radical damage |
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When cells create energy, they also produce unstable oxygen molecules. These molecules called free radicals. It has a free electron that bond to other molecules in the body causing proteins and other essential molecules not to function as they should. |
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It causes damage and dysfunction of healthy cells such as, DNA, protein and lipids. It also weakens skin immune functions. |
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Drinking and smoking |
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Alcohol is able to dilate small blood vessels in the skin and cause minor breakage in the veins which can result to the appearance of dark spots or skin pigmentations, these damages can be permanent. |
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Nicotine in cigarette depletes the vitamin C level of the body, it also creates trillions of free radicals leading to free radicals damage. |
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Repetitive facial expressions or resting face in the same position |
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When the facial muscles are repetitive used, grooves beneath the skin are formed. As we age, the ability of the skin to spring back decreases and the grooves develop into permanent lines and wrinkles. |
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Frown lines (lines between the eyebrows) and crow’s feet (lines that stem from the corner of the eye) are common examples of this problem. |
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Unhealthy lifestyle |
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Regular exercise helps improve blood circulation and invigorates skin. Lack of exercise causes insufficient supply of oxygen and nutrients to skin cells and idle activities of cell functions. |
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Stress and worries increase the production of adrenaline, making your skin look sallow and pale. Chronic stress may also cause muscle to be stiffed and tensed, obstructing the flow of blood to the skin. |
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Too little sleep makes the body unable to repair and renew itself. |
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Exposure to extreme weather |
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Cold winds and low or heated temperatures can be very drying to skin. Dry skin is more prone to fine lines and wrinkles. |
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About Aging:
1. If you were wondering when is the best time to start using anti-aging products, the answer is simple: now! And that applies whatever age you are.
2. Numerous changes occur in our body as we age, our skin has no exception. The intrinsic changes are the main causes of aging and the a fact of life that we cannot stop:-
• Quality of collagen and elastin declines:-
This process is known as elastosis, it weakens the skin support ability and resulting in a loose and sag skin; increased visibility of the pores; fine lines and wrinkles; skin is more susceptible to damage; longer ear lobes and the appearance of sleep line.
• Cell renewal rate decreases:-
This leads to cell desquamation (dead skin cell shedding) process slows down, keratinocytes naturally losing moisture content remain on the skin surface longer and resulting in a rough, dull, tired, thin, crepe and wrinkled skin.
• Excessive melanosomes and unevenly distributed melanin:-
The activities of melanocytes become abnormal when they are injured or damaged due to the intrinsic factors and extrinsic factors such as UV rays, resulting in hyper-pigmentation and dark spots
• Inactivity of sebaceous glands:-
When lesser sebum is being produced to maintain skin natural moisturizing ability, this results in dry, flaky and itchy skin. For men, this process occurs usually after the age of 80. For women, the gradual decrease occurs after menopause.
• Loss and thinning of subcutaneous fat:-
Subcutaneous fat is stored under the hypodermis layer. The loss of fat resulting in skin loosening, sunken eyes, hollowed cheeks, skin losses firmness, looks less plump and less smooth. • Shrinking bones:- - It may become evident after age 60 and cause puckering of the skin around the mouth, dropping of the nasal tip and accentuation of the bony structures in the nose.
• Fragile blood vessel:-
Relate to this are bruising (bleeding under the skin), cherry angiomas (small bright red raised bumps) and varicose veins (blue bulging veins).
• Abnormal keratinization by the cellular mitosis:-
Cellular mitosis is generally known as the growth and the division of cells. This causes the epidermal structure is disorganized and misshapen, skin looks rough, bumpy and uneven.
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If left untreated this problem may further develop to:-
Discoloration • Excessive and uneven distribution of melanin leads to hyper-pigmentation and dark spots
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Treatment:
As opposed to oily, acnetic skin, aging skin is usually lifeless and needs stimulating. Its cellular turnover has slowed down, estrogen production has fallen, EFA's are in desperate need and collagen and elastin formation has halted. This skin is tired, it is overworked and need some assistance to kick start it and reinforce its function.
For ultimate results.
Step 1. Recommend your client the suitable homecare products, Hydrating Cleanser, Exfoliation with AHA's at least 2x week, Vitamin A (retinols), Vitamin C, Eye cream, Moisturiser and Sun protection.
Step 2. IPL skin rejuvenation, microdermabraion (if skin is not weak) Max 7 and Enhancer treatments are a must. Peel are also great.
Step 3. Great if you can have a course of four facials, one week apart, then once a month, then every six weeks.
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Homecare:
1. Proper skin care routine
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Steps |
Remarks |
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1. Cleansing |
Always remember to use a makeup remover to thoroughly remove all makeup |
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Use a face wash designed for oily skin and pat dry the skin gently without vigorous rubbing. Avoid over drying cleanser with SLS (sodium laurel sulfate) |
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2. Serum, moisturizer and masque |
Start using anti-aging products which help promote collagen and elastin synthesis; fight free radicals, antioxidants; repair damaged skin cells; promote cell renewal rate; and etc. Ingredients you may look for are vitamin C, peptide, retinols, antioxidant properties and others. |
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3. Exfoliation |
Use an AHA exfoliant to remove dead skin cells and promote cell regeneration. |
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Choose a broad spectrum sun protection with physical blockers, such as titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide. Look for SPF at least 30 for optimum protection. |
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5. Makeup |
Keep makeup as light as possible and use makeup only when absolutely necessary. Always use an oil free foundation or makeup products |
2. Promote healthy lifestyle
• Consume foods with antioxidant properties such as green tea, grape, blueberry, prune and carrot which are high in vitamins A, C, E and beta carotene which help terminate the free radical chain reaction. Avoid deep fried, high-carbohydrate and high-sugar foods.
• Drink plenty of water (at least 2 little per day) daily to replenish your skin.
• Maintain a healthy lifestyle such as regular exercise, stress management, quit smoking, control alcohol consumption, and get sufficient sleep!
3. We should have different skin care needs at different stages of our lives:-
Ages 20 – 35:-
- 75% of skin damage has already occurred, mostly from over exposure under the sun.
- At this stage, overactive sebum secretion and cell regeneration begins to decline.
- You should develop a complete skin care routine to assist in the skin natural functions. Focus on hydration, gentle exfoliation and sun protection.
Ages 36 – 49:-
- Skin becomes drier and elasticity begins to decrease.
- Visible fine lines and pigmentation becomes more pronounced.
- You should use richer moisturizer, and products that able to boost cell regeneration and synthesis of collagen and elastin.
Ages 50+:-
- Your skin now loses its elasticity and becomes thinner, more sensitive and less able to retain moisture.
- Look for extra rich moisturizers and avoid excessive sun exposure. Use anti-wrinkle products to treat fine lines and wrinkles.
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Information on:
Botox
While many people think of botulinum toxin type A (known by the brand names Botox and Dysport) as an exciting new treatment for wrinkles, it has actually been used for several years to treat certain medical conditions. Botox blocks the release of a neurotransmitter known as acetylcholine from nerve cells. Acetylcholine normally transmits nerve impulses to muscle cells, causing them to contract. Without acetylcholine, the affected nerve is unable to send a signal to the muscle it supplies, resulting in a weakened or temporarily paralysed muscle. The effect of Botox injections is restricted to the area being treated, and because the nerve fibres usually regenerate after a couple of months, the effect is only temporary.
Botox injections can be used to weaken some of the facial muscles that pull on your skin and cause wrinkles, allowing the skin to flatten out. About 2 to 7 days after the injections, the lines and wrinkles that are normally caused by certain facial expressions start to disappear. Because Botox therapy targets specific, individual muscles, the ability to form most facial expressions should not be affected. The improvement in the appearance of your wrinkles usually lasts for 3 to 6 months, and repeated injections are required to maintain the effect. With continued use, the effects may start to last longer. Botox injections are relatively safe when administered by a medical professional who is trained in its use. As with all treatments, there are some side effects associated with its use, but most of these are mild and temporary. Pain, tenderness and bruising may be associated with the injection, and some people have reported a slight headache after treatment. Nausea and a flu-like syndrome are also sometimes reported. Botox injections should not be used in women who are pregnant or breast feeding.
Dermal Fillers: For Wrinkles, Lips & Facial Shaping
Dermal fillers can be used to revolumise areas of the face that have lost volume, or to non-surgically change the shape of the face. Common areas for treatment with dermal fillers include; lips, cheeks, tear troughs, chin, nose, brows, nasolabial folds, mouth corners, and wrinkles (static wrinkles). There are a number of temporary dermal fillers available at Skin Fitness,to find out which one is most suitable for you book in for a consultation with our Cosmetic Surgeon. Treatment with dermal fillers involve firstly numbing the area to be treated, and then injecting the filler. There are usually some temporary side effects post-treatment, including redness, swelling, asymmetry and bruising. Dermal fillers are a safe and effective method of non-surgically shaping, volumising, lifting, and rejuvenating the face
Microdermabrasion
Microdermabrasion can achieve dramatic results, but it is highly dependent on the skill of the therapist. For the best results, it is generally recommended get a series of treatments. Your therapist should be able to recommend the number that is appropriate for your skin type and condition. A typical protocal is six treatments about 10 to 14 days apart. It is essential that you use sun protection after the treatment. And depending on your skin and what the therapist recommends, exfoliating treatments used prior may enhance results. Microdermabrasion also improves lymphatic drainage of the face.
AHA/BHA Treatments
AHA/BHA treatments which works to exfoliate accumulation of dead skin cells, unclog pores, improve circulation and aid in the natural process of skin cell regeneration. AHA/BHA treatments are highly effective and suitable for anyone needing a instant radiant and smooth skin complexion. There is only one BHA (beta hydroxy acid) and that is salicylic acid, but there are a variety of AHAs. The five major types of AHAs that show up in skin-care products are glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, and tartaric acids. Of these, the most commonly used and most effective AHAs are glycolic and lactic acids. Both of these have the ability to penetrate the skin, plus they have the most accumulated research on their functionality and benefit for skin. Combining these treatments with the use of Vitamin A at home gives ultimate results, because exfoliants such as AHAs and BHA primarily affect the surface of the skin (epidermis) or the lining of the pore by actually ungluing or dissolving layers of skin cells. In contrast, retinoids affects the lower layers of skin (dermis), where new skin cells are produced. Retinoids actually communicate with a skin cell as it is being formed, telling it to develop normally instead of developing as a sun-damaged or genetically malformed skin cell.
Benefits
- Re-texture the skin
- Stimulate cell renewal for a healthier skin layer
- Natural skin brightener and softener
- Anti inflammatory, anti bacterial, anti microbial
- Tone and improve skin smoothes
The difference between AHA and BHA's
- AHA (glycolic acid usually) exfoliates the surface layers of your skin...clears away dead skin cells that can stick to sebum and clog pores and generally give your skin a dull appearance.
BHA (salycic acid) exfoliates the actual pore, meaning it loosens all the "junk" in them so the bacteria can be zapped easier by topicals such as benzoyl peroxide.
Together, the combo of AHA/BHA and BP has been an unbeatable combo for my very mild acne.
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Common Questions:
- My neck shows fine lines or circular lines, can I use my face ant-aging products to treat them? Of course! Many people neglect the neck area upon using skin care products. You should always apply your skin care products on the neck area as the neck indeed is the most pronounced area for fine lines.
- What age should I start using anti-aging products? You should start using anti-aging products now for prevention and maintenance.
- Can I use my anti-aging products on both my eye and my face? It is not advisable to do so as the skin around the eye area is more delicate, unless your anti-aging product is specially formulated and tested to be usable on both eye and face area.
CONGESTION AND CLOGGING:
Appearance:
Having a congested skin can often be referred to clogged pores, and the cause of most breakout problems. Clogged pores are clinically called comedones, or blackheads (open comedones) and whiteheads (close comedones).
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What’s Happening:
Deep within each hair follicle, sebum normally flows from the sebaceous glands to reach the skin to keep skin moist and pliable. When the routes or pores being clogged or congested, sebum is trapped within the pores and form comedones or blackheads and whiteheads. At times there is bacteria present causing infection and further complications. If skin is inflammed or angry you must treat this prior to treating the clogging and congestion.
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Causes
1. Excessive build up of dead skin cells
• The epidermis is made up of 10 to 30 very thin layers of continually shedding dead skin cells or keratinocytes. This layer is sloughed off or desquamated continually as new keranotinocytes take its place.
• The desquamation process is different for everyone, it slows down as we age.
• Uneven shedding causes keratinocytes to become sticky, clumping together to form a plug, or comedone. Thus trapping sebum and bacteria inside the follicle.
2. Excessive sebum
• Excessive sebum production is usually caused by seborrhea; a skin condition caused by overactive sebaceous glands.
• Few factors that may causes excessive sebum or overactive sebaceous glands:-
- Internally factors such as hormonal changes, menstruation, allergic reactions, genetics and etc
- Unhealthy lifestyle such as too much tension or worries, obesity and etc
- Improper contraceptive medicines and antibiotics
- Environmental factors such as climate, over sun exposure and etc.
- Dehydration will trigger the sebaceous glands to produce more sebum to counteract the dryness
3. Improper skin care routine
• Poor cleansing after the use of greasy or petrochemical-based skin care products
• Too much products or too heavy a product
4. Insufficient sleep
• Contribute to hormonal imbalance and irregular production of sebum
• Lead to metabolic imbalance which turns the healthy acidic skin into alkaline, an alkaline skin is prone to skin problems
5. Other environmental factors such as over exposure to the sun, air pollution, high humidity and etc.
6. Squeezing at comedones or scrubbing the skin too often may result in worsen the comedones.
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About comedones or commonly known as blackheads & whiteheads
- Comedones are a primary sign of acne. Preventing and removing comedones help control acne.
- Comedones are not the same as acne. Acne refers to a skin disease, and comedones may or may not be an indicator of an outbreak of acne. Comedones or clogged pores, can occur in people who are not suffering from acne. This distinction is important - a single blackhead does not mean that the sufferer has acne.
- Blackheads are named as they are as a result of the fact that they are black in color in origin. And despite the common misconception this is due to a pigment called melanin and not a result of poor hygiene.
- Comedones can vary in size - eg. comedones that are larger than two or three millimeters in diameter are known as macrocomedones.
- A comedone begins approximately 2 – 3 weeks before it appears on the surface of the skin.
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About sebum
1. Comedones normally happen to oily skin type where sebaceous gland is active in producing excessive sebum.
2. Skin needs sebum for keeping the skin and hair moisturized and protected.
3. During adolescence sebaceous glands enlarge and produce more sebum under the influence of hormones (androgens). After the age of 20, sebum production begins to decrease.
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If left untreated this problem may further develop to:-
Acne • Presence of bacteria P.acnes causes inflamed acne
Open Pores • Build up of excessive sebum & dead skin cells lead to enlarged, irregular shaped and thicken pores
Discoloration • Without proper exfoliation, excessive build up of dead skin cells leads to an uneven skin tone
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Treatment
To treat this condition we need to combine salon treatments and homecare. Micro-dermabrasion used with peels give ultimate results, however these clients MUST be using adequate skincare at home. If they are not scarring and complications may happen, it is my main reason for being hesitant for advanced tools, however they do give the best results. If you do not have them on the ESSENTIAL repairing serum, sunscreen and vitamin A you are not being responsible.
For ultimate results.
Step 1. Introduce your client two weeks prior to their Cleanser (balances pH), Vitamin A, Exfoliant, Repairing Serum and Moisturiser. In salon a peel 2 weeks prior will give enhanced results as you are removing the cornea layer.
Step 2. Five days prior to microdermabrasion get your client to stop using Vitamin A.
Step 3. Microdermabrasion course 6 treatments. A peel can be performed each time prior to micro for enhanced results.
Step 4. A month after microdermabrasion course get your client in for an hour facial with Vitamin C enhancer.
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Homecare
Unfortunately, comedones are something most of experience thanks to the skin's constant sebum production and cell turnover. But there are a few things you can do:-
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Proper skin care routine |
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Choose products that are non-comedogenic and free from:- |
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Lanolin: A fatty substance from sheep’s wool. It has moisturising properties, but pore clogging capabilities as well. |
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Fragrance: Artificial fragrance contributes to acne infections. |
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Mineral Oil: This oil has been shown to cause pore clogging and exacerbate acne |
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Do not squeeze the comedones which may further irritate the skin and possibly damage the skin tissue. |
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Limit the use of bloater. Overuse of bloater giving the sebaceous glands wrong information of skin dryness and causing excessive sebum secretion. |
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Promote a healthy lifestyle |
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Lessen the pressure of life |
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Regular exercise helps flush out toxins in our body. |
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Drink at least 8 glasses of water daily. |
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Get sufficient and quality sleep for 8 hours |
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Information on:
Microdermabrasion
Microdermabrasion can achieve dramatic results, but it is highly dependent on the skill of the therapist. For the best results, it is generally recommended get a series of treatments. Your therapist should be able to recommend the number that is appropriate for your skin type and condition. A typical protocal is six treatments about 10 to 14 days apart. It is essential that you use sun protection after the treatment. And depending on your skin and what the therapist recommends, exfoliating treatments used prior may enhance results. Microdermabrasion also improves lymphatic drainage of the face.
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Common Questions
It is advisable to treat your acne problem first as severe acne may infect other clear area. Your blackheads and whiteheads will reduce if you start to exfoliate and control skin oiliness.
DEHYDRATION:
Appearance:
Surface dryness, fine lines, skin looks parched and feels taught.
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What’s Happening:
Most people confuse or misdiagnose their skin between dry and dehydration. Dry skin can be generic and is normally caused by not having enough sebum in the skin, while skin dehydration is from not having enough water. Skin dehydration happens when the outermost layer of the skin starts to evaporate moisture, and insufficient internal hydration of epidermis. Once this damage occurs, the skin will no longer be a good barrier and causing skin problems such as scarring, taut skin, superficial lines, skin lack of radiance, loss of elasticity and premature aging.
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Causes:
1. Internal factors
• Abnormalities in physiological functions:-
- Stratum corneum is unable to obtain moisture via the migration of keratinocytes from stratum basale.
- Deficiency in epidermis causes rapid moisture evaporation.
- Lacks of Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) components cause the stratum corneum hardly stay hydrate.
• Illness and medications:-
- Certain illnesses may cause internal dehydration and ultimately affect the epidermis.
- Diuretics and many cold and flu remedies dry up mucous have some side-effects on the surface of skin.
- The use of cortisone also induces dehydration and may produce permanent effects.
• Aging:-
- Cause a reduction in the water holding capacity and weakening of the skin in preventing excessive water evaporation.
- Lesser sebum is produced, skin natural moisturizing ability is therefore has declined.
2. Environmental factors
• Environmental factors include dry air, wind, prolonged water exposure (swimming or showers), air conditioning, overheated rooms, and very hot or very cold climates.
• Moisture evaporates quickly within the dry atmosphere. The friction and heat of hot water remove sebum from the skin's surface, inviting capillary damage and dehydration.
3. Improper skin care routine
• Harsh cleanser containing sodium laurel sulfate (SLS) – wash off skin natural protection lipid and leaves skin unprotected and subject to moisture loss.
• Alcohol based toners will remove sebum and act like strong cleansers.
• Light textured or milky moisturizers giving skin little moisture without protection.
• Regular use of scrubs can break down cell cohesion and reduce the skin capacity to retain water.
• Dehydration also results from using harsh acne treatments like hydrogen peroxide, retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, hexachlorophene, etc.
4. Unhealthy lifestyle
• Insufficient water intake leading the epidermis fails to compensate the fluid deprivation by drawing moisture from keratinocytes.
• Insufficient healthy fats make skin having difficulties in holding moisture and nutrition.
• Excessive intake of table salt (sodium chloride) can withdraw water from cell, creating water retention and bloating.
• Excessive intake of coffee and tea due to their content of caffeine- diuretic.
• Cigarette smoking will reduce the flow of moisture and nutrition to the cells.
• Too little sleep makes the body unable to repair and renew itself.
5. Over exposure to the sun
• Continual UV rays exposure alters the keratinization process and weaken the ability of the cells in the horny layer to bond together.
• Break down of dermal tissues can affect the transfer of moisture to the epidermis.
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About Dehydration:
1. Any skin type can be dehydrated, even oily skin.
2. It is characterized by lack of water in the stratum corneum; the outermost layer of the epidermis.
3. Dry skin can be generic.
4. The epidermis can only receive water indirectly by the production and upward movement of new basal cells / keratinocytes containing cellular fluids from the stratum basale, or topical moisturizing of the epidermis layer.
5. The quantity of water transmitted from the basal cells to the outermost skin layers is dependent on the internal hydration ability. (Natural Moisturizing Factor – NMF)
6. Water trapping power of stratum corneum plays an important role in maintaining skin hydration. (Moisture Retaining Factor – MRF)
7. Signs and symptoms of dehydrated skin:
• Development of fine lines on the forehead, around eyes, and cheekbones.
• The skin feels discomfort, tight or itchy.
• The skin looks dull, rough and red.
• Premature aging, loss of skin elasticity, flaking and scaling.
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If left untreated this problem may further develop to:-
Congestion • Excessive sebum is being produced to prevent further water loss from the skin surface
Aging • Low skin moisture content leads to tight, rough and crack of the skin surface
Sensitive • Reduction in the water content will weaken the skin protection barrier
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Treatment:
For ultimate results.
Step 1. Recommend your client the suitable homecare products; Cleanser, exfoliation with AHA's at least 2 x week, vitamin A (stop 5 days prior to IPl and micro and dont use until 5 days after), Vitamin C, Moisturiser and sun protection.
Step 2. Microdermabrasion (if skin is not weak) Max 7 and enhancer treatments are a must. Peel are also great.
Step 3. Great if you can have four facials once a week for a month then every six weeks.
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Homecare:
Surface dehydration causes the skin to overcompensate by producing even more sebum or oil. The result? Not only is your skin still dehydrated, now it’s congested, which may result in acne and even acne scars.
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Proper skin care routine |
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Promote healthy lifestyle |
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Consume foods with healthy fats (essential fatty acids like almond, sunflower seeds etc). |
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Reduce the consumption of salt as it removes water from body and skin. |
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Quit smoking; avoid drinking caffeine drinks and alcohol as they dry your skin. |
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Quit smoking; avoid drinking caffeine drinks and alcohol as they dry your skin. |
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Avoid expose to dry air, wind, prolonged water exposure from swimming or showers, air conditioning, overheated rooms, and very hot or very cold climates. |
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Microdermabrasion
Microdermabrasion can achieve dramatic results, but it is highly dependent on the skill of the therapist. For the best results, it is generally recommended get a series of treatments. Your therapist should be able to recommend the number that is appropriate for your skin type and condition. A typical protocol is six treatments about 10 to 14 days apart. It is essential that you use sun protection after the treatment. And depending on your skin and what the therapist recommends, exfoliating treatments used prior may enhance results. Microdermabrasion also improves lymphatic drainage of the face.
AHA/BHA Treatments
AHA/BHA treatments which works to exfoliate accumulation of dead skin cells, unclog pores, improve circulation and aid in the natural process of skin cell regeneration. AHA/BHA treatments are highly effective and suitable for anyone needing a instant radiant and smooth skin complexion. There is only one BHA (beta hydroxy acid) and that is salicylic acid, but there are a variety of AHAs. The five major types of AHAs that show up in skin-care products are glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, and tartaric acids. Of these, the most commonly used and most effective AHAs are glycolic and lactic acids. Both of these have the ability to penetrate the skin, plus they have the most accumulated research on their functionality and benefit for skin. Combining these treatments with the use of Vitamin A at home gives ultimate results, because exfoliants such as AHAs and BHA primarily affect the surface of the skin (epidermis) or the lining of the pore by actually ungluing or dissolving layers of skin cells. In contrast, retinoids affects the lower layers of skin (dermis), where new skin cells are produced. Retinoids actually communicate with a skin cell as it is being formed, telling it to develop normally instead of developing as a sun-damaged or genetically malformed skin cell.
Benefits
- Re-texture the skin
- Stimulate cell renewal for a healthier skin layer
- Natural skin brightener and softener
- Anti inflammatory, anti bacterial, anti microbial
- Tone and improve skin smoothes
The difference between AHA and BHA's
- AHA (glycolic acid usually) exfoliates the surface layers of your skin...clears away dead skin cells that can stick to sebum and clog pores and generally give your skin a dull appearance.
BHA (salycic acid) exfoliates the actual pore, meaning it loosens all the "junk" in them so the bacteria can be zapped easier by topicals such as benzoyl peroxide. Together, the combo of AHA/BHA and BP has been an unbeatable combo for my very mild acne.
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Common Questions:
They are not the same although both may show some similar signs such as fine lines, skin discomfort, tight or itchy etc. Dry skin is the skin lacks of oil or sebum secreted by pilosebaceous gland whereas dehydrated skin is lack of moisture in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of epidermis.
- I drink large quantities of water daily, but my skin still dehydrated, why?
There is misconception that drinking water can directly help in skin hydration. But many experts are now refuting the above-mentioned benefits. Unless the individual is severely dehydrated, drinking large quantities of water will not prevent dehydrated skin. The water that is consumed internally will not reach the epidermis.
OPEN PORES:
Appearance:
Large pores, enlarged pores, visible pores
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What’s Happening:
We have pores all over our body, tiny holes that contain hair follicles and act as outlets for sebum. Pores size vary, when the sebaceous glands are active, the pores appear larger. Pores also appear larger as one gets older and when the skin starts to sag. When pores become enlarge, it may be easily clogged which usually leads to skin discoloration. At present, no treatments or products that can close pores directly. However, we can reduce the pore size by reduce the activity of the sebaceous glands or improving the skin firmness that tighten the skin.
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Causes:
1. Excessive sebum secretion
• When the traffic of the sebum effusion along the follicles increases, it causes the opening of the pore enlarges and thickens.
• The over-filling of excessive sebum blocks the follicular openings and thus the wall of the pilosebaceous ducts being stretched to accommodate the hardened sebum. Hence expanding the diameter of pores and losing their natural resilience.
• The stretching activity causes damage on tissues along the pilosebaceous duct.
• In normal circumstance, the stretched tissue will rebound to its original stage, which means the enlarged pores will shrink as the connective tissues (collagen and elastin) are replacing the damaged tissues.
• However, when there is insufficient connective tissue been synthesized and replaced, this causes the permanent enlarged pores.
2. Insufficient connective tissues (lost of collagen and elastin)
• Connective tissues are the structural portions of our body that essentially hold the cells together. It composes two major structural protein molecules, collagen and elastin.
• Connective tissues are the structural portions of our body that essentially hold the cells together. It composes two major structural protein molecules, collagen and elastin.
- Age factor
• After the age of 20, we lose about 2% of our collagen every year.
• The rims of tissue along the pilosebaceous duct begin to stretch and sag around the edges, which can make the pores appear larger.
- Prolonged sun exposure or UV radiation
• Epidermis become thicken and the rims of cells are more likely to be collected around individual pore, exaggerating pore diameter and causing enlarged pores.
• Sun exposure and UV radiation will break down elastin and collagen thus interfering the production of new collagen, skin losses its elasticity.
- Free radical
• Free radical damages include over-degradation of collagen and elastin, worsen the open pores problem.
3. Insufficient sleep
• It contributes to hormonal imbalance and irregular production of sebum
• It leads to metabolic imbalance which turns the healthy acidic skin into alkaline condition, an alkaline skin is prone to skin problems
4. Other factors could be any but not limited to the following:-
• Hormonal changes
• Alcohol and smoking
• Skin dehydration
• Dirt, oil, dead skin cells
• Overuse of makeup
• Improper diet
• Puberty, menopause.
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About Open Pores:
Although enlarged pores may not be desired, they can actually present some benefits as the skin begins to age. People with large pores tend to have oily skin, which can help counteract the drying and wrinkling of skin that occurs with age.
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Biological term for open pores is enlarged pilosebaceous pores. |
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Empty funnel-shaped pores are physiologically present in all individuals. |
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Enlarged pores are characterized by: |
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• Visible topographic features at the skin surface corresponding to enlarge openings of pilosebaceous follicles |
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• Appear as empty funnel-shaped or cylindrical-shaped structures. |
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If you have oily skin, you probably suffer from enlarged pores too. If you do not take care of your enlarged pores, it will soon develop into clogged pores that lead to blackheads, whiteheads and acne. (read more on skin congestion and acne) |
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Even dry skin complexions can suffer from large pores within the dreaded T-zone. |
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“Many people with enlarge pores are born that way” – which leads some to believe that you can’t do anything about them. This is misled thinking. With just a few simple steps, you can reduce the size of your pores or cover them up. |
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One very unpleasant fact of life is that our pores appear larger as we age, especially around the nose. Thus enlarged pore is a sign of aging. |
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If left untreated this problem may further develop to:-
Discoloration • Without proper exfoliation, excessive build up of dead skin cells leads to an uneven skin tone
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Treatment:
Introduce Vitamin A for this skin type, using once a week, then increase this. Whilst doing this incorporate MAX 7 with light peels on the skin.
For ultimate results.
Step 1. Introduce homecare and begin a peel series. With Max 7 treatment in salon. One per week (but twice will see faster results) also incorporate vitamin A.
Step 2. After your peeling course introduce Microdermabrasion course of six treatments.
Step 3. Great if you can have four facials once a week, then every six weeks.
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Homecare:
1. Proper skin care routine
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Steps |
Remarks |
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1. Cleansing |
Always remember to use a makeup remover to thoroughly remove all makeup |
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Use a face wash designed for oily skin and pat dry the skin gently without vigorous rubbing. Avoid over drying cleanser with SLS (sodium laurel sulfate) |
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2. Serum & moisturizer & masque |
Choose products that contain skin tightening properties; promote the synthesis of collagen and elastin, and skin protection function against free radical and oxidation. Useful ingredients include vitamin C (in the form of L-Ascorbyl acid, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate. |
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3. Exfoliation |
Use a exfoliant for deep pore cleansing and promote cell regeneration. |
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4. Sun Protection |
Choose a light weight sun protection with at least SPF 30 |
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5. Makeup |
Keep makeup as light as possible and use makeup only when absolutely necessary. Always use an oil free foundation or makeup products |
2. Promote a healthy lifestyle
• Lessen the pressure of life
• Regular exercise to flush out unnecessary toxins and drink several glasses of water daily to replenish your skin.
• Get sufficient and quality sleep for 8 hours
3. Maintain healthy pores with massages
• Massage is good for maintaining skin elasticity and preventing pores from enlarging. While washing your face or applying skin care routine, patting your face using fingers is a good massage.
4. Pay attention to your skin congestion, acne, and aging problems
• Comedones and acnes are symptons of enlarged pores, therefore, stop squeezing!!!!
• Aging is one of the main factors for enlarged pores, delay your aging process by managing your skin with the right skin care routine.
5. Common myth - Using cold packs or alcohol products help tighten an enlarged pore?
• Using these products may have temporary tightening effect, but it is extremely short lived.
• These products cause the capillaries to constrict and the tiny erectile muscles of the pores to tighten, but this may irritate a capillary, especially on sensitive skin.
• These products may actually encourage excessive sebum secretion, leading to an increased in the size of pore.
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Information on:
Microdermabrasion
Microdermabrasion can achieve dramatic results, but it is highly dependent on the skill of the therapist. For the best results, it is generally recommended get a series of treatments. Your therapist should be able to recommend the number that is appropriate for your skin type and condition. A typical protocal is six treatments about 10 to 14 days apart. It is essential that you use sun protection after the treatment. And depending on your skin and what the therapist recommends, exfoliating treatments used prior may enhance results.
AHA/BHA Treatments
AHA/BHA treatments which works to exfoliate accumulation of dead skin cells, unclog pores, improve circulation and aid in the natural process of skin cell regeneration. AHA/BHA treatments are highly effective and suitable for anyone needing a instant radiant and smooth skin complexion. There is only one BHA (beta hydroxy acid) and that is salicylic acid, but there are a variety of AHAs. The five major types of AHAs that show up in skin-care products are glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, and tartaric acids. Of these, the most commonly used and most effective AHAs are glycolic and lactic acids. Both of these have the ability to penetrate the skin, plus they have the most accumulated research on their functionality and benefit for skin. Combining these treatments with the use of Vitamin A at home gives ultimate results, because exfoliants such as AHAs and BHA primarily affect the surface of the skin (epidermis) or the lining of the pore by actually ungluing or dissolving layers of skin cells. In contrast, retinoids affects the lower layers of skin (dermis), where new skin cells are produced. Retinoids actually communicate with a skin cell as it is being formed, telling it to develop normally instead of developing as a sun-damaged or genetically malformed skin cell.
Benefits
- Re-texture the skin
- Stimulate cell renewal for a healthier skin layer
- Natural skin brightener and softener
- Anti inflammatory, anti bacterial, anti microbial
- Tone and improve skin smoothes
The difference between AHA and BHA's
AHA (glycolic acid usually) exfoliates the surface layers of your skin...clears away dead skin cells that can stick to sebum and clog pores and generally give your skin a dull appearance. BHA (salycic acid) exfoliates the actual pore, meaning it loosens all the "junk" in them so the bacteria can be zapped easier by topicals such as benzoyl peroxide. Together, the combo of AHA/BHA and BP has been an unbeatable combo for my very mild acne.
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Common Questions:
I have lots of visible pores on my cheeks, chin, foreheads, nose. What should I do? There is no way to totally “invisible” the pores but proper skin care routine that helps control sebum production, boost hydration, exfoliation, or using vitamin C products and sun protection will improve and tighten the pores. Besides, consume more vitamin C rich foods will help improve the collagen synthesis and hence shrink the pores. Exercise, sufficient sleep, pressure management will all assist in the problem.
How does vitamin C tighten the pores? Vitamin C, more exactly L-ascorbic acid, is essential in several enzymatic reactions in our body. For synthesis of collagen, L-ascorbic acid serves as a pro-collagen modifier in order for pro-collagen to become mature collagen and move to the skin pores area to help support the pores. With gain of sufficient collagen, it also provides the structural support system for tissue around the pores with strength and elasticity. In addition, it also acts as antioxidant to protect skin against oxidative stress (free-radical).
Will regular exfoliation help open pores? Yes, regular and gentle exfoliation (twice a week for oily skin) is needed to disintegrate the dead or dry skin cells on the surface of skin to unclog pores. This also encourages new cell turnover and prevents acne formation, reducing the chance for acne occurance.
Should I use cold water to close my large pores? No. Cold water does not close large pores and can actually irritate the skin. To make the size of the pores less noticeable, rinse with tepid water (which makes skin feel tighter) but not with cold wate
PIGMENTATION:
Appearance:
Pigmentation, hyper-pigmentation, pigmentation disorder, uneven skin tone, dull skin tone, darken skin, dark spots, brown spots, age spots, sun spots, sun burn, liver spots, patches, freckles, melasma, lentigos, solar lentigines.
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What’s Happening:
Human skin has red, yellow, brown and blue tone; the skin tones result from combination of complex bio-molecules such as melanin (brown pigment), beta-carotene (yellow to orange pigment), hemoglobin (red pigment) and the condition of the skin.
The most prominent of which is melanin, produced by melanocytes under the stratum basale. Some areas of the skin simply have less melanin than other areas. As the cells containing more melanin come in contact with prolonged period of sunlight, they become darker. Other areas with less melanin or that have less exposure to the sun, remain lighter. This gives the skin an appearance of an uneven skin tone, or even pigmentation.
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Causes:
1. Hormonal imbalance will result in over stimulation of melanin synthesis, and hence stimulate the melanocytes to produce too much or too little melanin. The higher or lower concentration of melanin leads to the discolored appearance.
2. Sun damage – situation when skin is repeatedly exposed to ultraviolet rays
• Ultraviolet or UV is divided into 3 sections according to their wavelengths from the sun to the Earth:-
- UVC – shortest from the sun, usually does not reach the earth’s surface being absorbed by the ozone layer.
- UVB – able to penetrate to the epidermis layer and stimulate the melanocytes to produce more melanin.
- UVA – the strongest ray that able to shoot through the epidermis and disperse in the dermis layer,
• It accelerates the aging process by cracking and shrinking collagen and elastin, allowing the epidermis to start drooping or hanging off the body.
• Blood vessels become permanently dilated giving a constant red flush to the skin.
• The melanocytes can either die making a permanent white spot or become over active leaving a brown spot.
• Melanocytes response to both UVA and UVB in different mechanisms and result in skin discoloration.
• If UV rays exceed what can be blocked by the level of melanin, sunburn results.
3. Aging
• Thinning and weakening of the epidermis due to aging causes the skin to become more photo-sensitive (more sensitive with lights), resulting in overproduction of melanin and hyper-pigmentation.
• The aging process will slow down the process of sloughing off dead skin cells, dead skin cells tend to solidify and stick to the skin surface for longer than normal. This thick layer of dead skin cells contribute to a dull skin complexion or an uneven skin tone.
• As we age, the accumulative sun damage and the genetic-determined changes in human skin structure will affect the number of melanocytes leading to skin blotchiness or age spots.
4. Excessive sebum
• When sebaceous glands produce excessive sebum, dead skin cells tend to solidify and stick to the skin surface for longer than normal. This thick layer of dead skin cells contributes to an uneven skin tone.
• When exfoliation is not done, the patches stick for so long that the surface skin hardens and cracks. Over times, these cracks go deeper and deeper into the dermis, causing permanent scarring.
5. Improper skin care routine
• The use of makeup products consist of mercury or certain chemical substances that cause skin photosensitivity
• Poor exfoliation will allow an accumulation of dead skin cells which worsen the excessive sebum secretion
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About Pigmentation:
1. The whole process of melanin synthesis is known as melanogenesis.
2. Tyrosinase is a copper containing enzyme that catalyzes the production of melanin.
3. Pigmentation is more common amongst the middle aged women.
4. The more melanocytes there are in a person skin, the darker that person skin will be.
5. European has lesser amount of melanocytes in their skin and hence they have fairer skin tone and vice verse.
6. Melanin is produced to protect the skin against harmful ultraviolet rays. When melanocytes are damaged or over stimulated, they may begin to produce too much, or too little melanin.
7. Skin with too much melanin is called hyper-pigmentation – symptoms such as melasma, freckles, lentigenes, sun burn and etc
8. Skin with too little melanin is called hypo-pigmentation – symptoms such as skin looks pale, vitiligo and etc
9. Uneven skin tone normally happens on oily or combination skin where sebaceous glands produce excessive sebum, this causes dead skin cells tend to solidify and stick to the skin surface for longer than normal. This thick layer of dead skin cells contribute to a dull skin complexion.
10. There are few types of skin discoloration:-
• Nevus or “birth mark” The dark marks in various shapes and sizes, appearing at birth or soon after in shades of red and brown. Usually seen at birth but may also appear at a later age.
• Moles (medically known as pigmented naevi) The brown-to-blackish blemishes can be flat or raised, grow or disappear with age.
• Age Spots or Liver Spots or Sun Spots (technically known as lentigo or lentigines – plural) Shapes are small and sharply circumscribed. Normally appear on the face, chest, hands and other areas frequently exposed to the sun. The lesions are usually brown, but older lesions are often dark brown or brownish black.
• Melasma or chloasma spot Large area of dark, irregular patches, similar in appearance to age spot. Commonly found on the upper cheek, nose, lips, upper lip, and forehead. It may appear due to the consumption of birth control pills, menopause or pre-menopause.
• Freckles or ephelides Freckles are flat, tanned circular spots. Usually happened in people with fair complexion or has a lower concentration of melanocytes, found on areas like cheeks, nose, arms and upper shoulders.
• Vitiligo Patches are initially small in size, they can often start to enlarge and change shape. They are most prominent on the face, hands and wrists. It occurs when the melanocytes die or become unable to function.
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If left untreated this problem may further develop to:-
Sensitive • The over use of certain skin whitening or bleaching products and treatments may lead to sensitive and allergic skin.
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Treatment:
For ultimate results.
Step 1. Recommend your client the suitable homecare products; Cleanser, exfoliation with AHA's at least 2x week, vitamin A (but stop 5 days prior to IPl or micro), Vitamin C, Moisturiser and sun protection.
Step 2. IPL skin rejuvenation, microdermabrasion (if skin is not weak) Max 7 and enhancer treatments are a must. Peels are also great.
Step 3. Great if you can have 4 facials one week apart, then every six weeks.
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Homecare:
1. Proper skin care routine
• To prevent skin discoloration, the obvious solution lies in protecting your skin from the sun and regular exfoliation in removing all dead skin cells.
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Steps |
Remarks |
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Always remember to use a makeup remover to thoroughly remove all makeup |
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Use a face wash designed for oily skin and pat dry the skin gently without vigorous rubbing. Avoid over drying cleanser with SLS (sodium laurel sulfate) |
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2. Serum, moisturizer and masque |
Always looks for products that help whiten or lighten skin; inhibit tyrosinase and melanogenesis; and eliminate undesirable uneven blotches of dead skin cells. Active ingredients that you might take into consideration are Licorice extract, Bearberry, Idebenone, Vitamin C, Alpha arbutin, Kojic acid, multivitamins, AHAs, BHA, retinoids, and etc. • Extra cautious on ingredients and treatment such as Hydroquinone or skin bleaching which may cause skin irritation. |
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3. Exfoliation |
Gentle exfoliation helps remove dead skin cells and eliminate undesirable uneven blotches already present. AHAs, BHA, Retinoid all work to reveal the clear skin hidden underneath. |
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Choose a broad spectrum sun protection with physical blockers, such as titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide. Look for SPF level of 30 and PA+++ for optimum protection (full spectrum or board spectrum) |
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5. Makeup |
Keep makeup as light as possible and use makeup only when absolutely necessary. Always use an oil free foundation or makeup products. Though many products have a light SPF added, do not assume it will be enough to go out without daily sun protection as well. |
2. Protect your skin from the sun!
• SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor, which is a measure of UVB protection. It relates to how long it takes for skin to get burnt by the sun UVB radiation. SPF15 means it will take 150 minutes to produce sunburn on a person who gets sun burn in 10 minutes.
• The best sun protection is achieved by application 15 to 30 minutes before exposure, followed by one reapplication 15 to 30 minutes after the sun exposure begins. Further reapplication is only necessary after activities such as swimming, sweating, and rubbing.
• The rays of the sun are strongest between 10am to 4pm – If a person’s shadow is shorter than their actual height while standing, the risk of sunburn is much higher.
• Wear a hat with a brim and anti UV sunglasses can provide almost 99% protection against ultraviolet radiation.
3. Promote healthy lifestyle
• Consume foods with antioxidants properties (green tea, grape, blueberry, carrot etc) which can help in fighting of free radicals thus protecting the skin from UVA radiation.
• Maintain a healthy lifestyle such as regular exercise, stress management, quit smoking, control alcohol intakes, and get sufficient sleep!
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Information on:
Skin Rejuvenation IPL
IPL Photo-Rejuvenation or ‘Photofacials’ are an effective way to even out your skin tone while producing firmer, smoother and clearer looking skin after only 2-3 sessions.
What can IPL treat?
- Flat, benign pigmented lesions (freckles, sunspots and general pigmentation)
- Facial vascular lesions (spider veins, red spots and broken capillaries
- Diffuse redness, rosacea and red scarring
- Poikiloderma (redness, pigmentation and a spotty look to the neck and/or décolletage)
- Unwanted dark facial and body hair
- Uneven skin colouring
- Sundamage
Pigmented lesions will generally go darker, then will fall off within 7 to 28 days (depending on the area of the body) or will just gradually fade. Vascular lesions such as broken blood vessels, cherry angiomas or Campbell de Morgan spots, will either disappear immediately, appear purplish in colour or varying shades of grey to black. They will then gradually fade or disappear. Diffuse redness will usually appear immediately more red, then gradually fades within 2-3 weeks. A 70-90% reduction of pigmentation can generally be expected with visible improvements seen after each treatment. Recommended skin care and strict sun protection helps to maintain results for much longer and continues to improve the skins appearance. Vascular conditions will vary in response according to underlying individual factors, though Campbell de Morgan spots and cherry angiomas are often completely removed with 1-3 treatments depending on their size.
Microdermabrasion
Microdermabrasion can achieve dramatic results, but it is highly dependent on the skill of the therapist. For the best results, it is generally recommended get a series of treatments. Your therapist should be able to recommend the number that is appropriate for your skin type and condition. A typical protocal is six treatments about 10 to 14 days apart. It is essential that you use sun protection after the treatment. And depending on your skin and what the therapist recommends, exfoliating treatments used prior may enhance results.
AHA/BHA Treatments
AHA/BHA treatments which works to exfoliate accumulation of dead skin cells, unclog pores, improve circulation and aid in the natural process of skin cell regeneration. AHA/BHA treatments are highly effective and suitable for anyone needing a instant radiant and smooth skin complexion. There is only one BHA (beta hydroxy acid) and that is salicylic acid, but there are a variety of AHAs. The five major types of AHAs that show up in skin-care products are glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, and tartaric acids. Of these, the most commonly used and most effective AHAs are glycolic and lactic acids. Both of these have the ability to penetrate the skin, plus they have the most accumulated research on their functionality and benefit for skin. Combining these treatments with the use of Vitamin A at home gives ultimate results, because exfoliants such as AHAs and BHA primarily affect the surface of the skin (epidermis) or the lining of the pore by actually ungluing or dissolving layers of skin cells. In contrast, retinoids affects the lower layers of skin (dermis), where new skin cells are produced. Retinoids actually communicate with a skin cell as it is being formed, telling it to develop normally instead of developing as a sun-damaged or genetically malformed skin cell.
Benefits
- Re-texture the skin
- Stimulate cell renewal for a healthier skin layer
- Natural skin brightener and softener
- Anti inflammatory, anti bacterial, anti microbial
- Tone and improve skin smoothes
The difference between AHA and BHA's
- AHA (glycolic acid usually) exfoliates the surface layers of your skin...clears away dead skin cells that can stick to sebum and clog pores and generally give your skin a dull appearance.
BHA (salycic acid) exfoliates the actual pore, meaning it loosens all the "junk" in them so the bacteria can be zapped easier by topicals such as benzoyl peroxide.
Together, the combo of AHA/BHA and BP has been an unbeatable combo for my very mild acne.
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Common Questions:
- Who is likely to get solar lentigo?
Solar Lentigines, also called sun, age, or liver spots, are benign flat brown spots that look like large brown freckles. They appear on sun-exposed skin, such as the face or back of the hands. 90% of light skinned people fitzpatrick 1-3) over the age of 60 develop the condition. In general, those who are most likely to have solar lentigines are people who have a tendency to sunburn and tan little or not at all. - Who is likely to get vitiligo?
The condition affects nearly 2% of the population, typically striking those between the ages of 10 and 30, and is most prevalent among those with darker skin. The reason is unknown. Though many people report pigment loss shortly after severe sunburn, the cause is likely a combination of genetic, immunologic and neurogenic factors. There is no current cure for Vitiligo but treatment forms have improved over the years.
SCARRING:
Appearance:
Acne scars, scarring, post acne, post operation, post peel, cicatrice.
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What’s Happening:
Scar is area of fibrous tissue that replaces normal skin tissue after injury. It is resulted from the natural healing process of wound repair in the skin. When the fibrous tissue is not identical to the original tissue it replaced, and hence appeared as scar.
Acne scar is the product of inflamed acne and the visible remnants of acne are permanently left. Usually severe, inflamed, cystic acne leaves scars after healing, but in some people even superficially inflamed acne can cause scarring. There are many types of scars, each determined by the depth of wound and tissue response towards the inflammation of skin.
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Causes:
1. Acne
• Scars are most often the product of an inflamed lesion, such as a papule, pustule, nodules or cysts.
• Inflamed acne occurs when the pore becomes engorged with excessive sebum, dead skin cells and bacteria P.acnes. The pore swells, causing a break in the follicle wall where the infected material spills out into the dermis, causing damage in the dermis.
• Responding to the damage, the skin forms new collagen fibers to repair the wound. When the repair job is not as smooth and flawless as the original skin, the more likely scarring is to occur.
• Overgrowth or buildup of the collagen fibers which causes raised scars, hypertrophic scars or keloid scars
• Loss of collagen fibers which causes ice pick scars; rolling scars or boxcar scars.
2. Inflammation
• The greater the inflammation on the skin, the more likely scarring is to occur.
• Deep breakouts that take a long time to heal also increase the chance of scarring.
3. Pinching and squeezing of the acne
– this spreads the infection to nearby skin and damages unhealed tissue, which result in pit like scars.
4. Alternation or abnormal wound healing process
• The wound healing process can be classified by the layers involved
- Superficial wounds involve only the epidermis
- Partial thickness wounds involve the dermis
- Full thickest wounds reach into the subcutaneous fat of deeper
• Usually the superficial wound only causes tissue damage in the epidermis it is healed without leaving scars. The epidermis undergoes normal cell replacement process through cell regeneration process.
• The wound repairing in epidermis occurs by a process similar to physiological epidermal replacement. The cells of the stratum basale (the basal layer of epidermis) multiply, and then migrate from undamaged areas to replace damaged cells, the eventual repair has a normal structure and appearance and leaves no visible scars.
• Various factors such as the depth and size of the wound; age; heredity; even sex or ethnicity will all affect how the skin reacts to the wound healing process.
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About Scarring:
1. Scar, medically known as cicatrice.
2. Scars contribute to a person looking older than their age as the skin loses its elasticity over the years.
3. Scars almost always result from trauma of some kind, for example surgery, accident or severe acne.
4. The most common scars found on face; acne scars are resulted from inflamed acne such as papules, pustules, nodules or cysts.
5. The best way to prevent any acne scars from forming is to prevent more acne in the first place.
6. Different forms of scars are determined by:-
• The depth of wound or damage to the skin layers
• Tissue response to inflammation or the alternation during the wound healing process
• Initial wound management
7. Type of scars:-
• Raised scars (hypertrophic scars and keloids) - caused by increase tissue formation by buildup or overgrowth of collagen in the skin.
- Hypertrophic scars
- Tend to become thick, raised, red and appear swollen.
- They remain within the bounds of the wound and take longer time to heal.
- Keloid scars
- Tend to develop more prominently in the upper chest, neck and facial region.
- It is rubbery and firm and may itch.
- Individual with darker pigment tends to be at higher risk for developing keloids.
• Depressed scars - resulting from loss of tissue or collagen, it is the most common than raised acne scars.
- Ice pick scars
They are narrow, sharp, small scars with a jagged edge and steep sides; it makes the skin appear as it has been punctured with an ice pick. They may look like large open pores on face, often found on the cheeks. Ice pick scars develop after an infection from a cyst or other deep and inflamed acnes.
- Rolling scars
Occur as a result of tethering of otherwise normal appearing skin to the subcutaneous tissue below. A wave-like appearance on the skin surface due to their wide and shallow depth.
- Boxcar scars (or fibrotic scars)
They are round to oval depressions that have sharp vertical edges, usually on the temples or cheeks, it is similar to chickenpox scars.
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If left untreated this problem may further develop to:-
Discoloration • Without proper exfoliation, excessive build up of dead skin cells leads to an uneven skin tone
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Treatment:
You need to identify if the scarred skin is weak and needing strengthening or thickened and coarse. Weaker skin will take longer to treat but results are far greater. Like sensitive skin with weak skin you have to first build the skins resilience. Begin by strengthening the skins protective barrier, introducing skin care slowly. Also introduce Vitamin A for this skin type, using once a week, then increase this. Whilst doing this incorporate MAX 7 with light peels on the skin.
For ultimate results.
Step 1. Introduce homecare one at a time and introduce Max 7 treatment in salon. One per week (but twice will see faster results) also incorporate vitamin A.
Step 2. After one month if skin looks stronger book the client in for a series of peels, twice a week if possible. With Max 7.
Step 3. After your peeling course introduce Microdermabrasion course of six treatments.
Step 4. Great if you can have four facials once a week for a month, then every six weeks.
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Homecare:
1. As scar is the byproduct of an inflamed lesion or acne, you should prevent and treat your acne correctly and properly. Read more on acne.
• Don’t pick at or squeeze inflamed skin. Doing so will only extend the healing time, spread infection to other areas, worsen inflammation, and may even cause permanent scars. Allow the inflamed area to heal on its own.
2. Proper skin care routine.
• Skin that is damaged by acne scars requires very gentle products.
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Steps |
Remarks |
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1. Cleansing |
Choose a cleanser that is not abrasive. If you wash your face too roughly or use abrasive products, your skin will become even more irritated. |
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2. Serum, moisturiser and masque |
Look for products that help in cell regenerating, repairing, remodeling that improve circulation and increase collagen and elastin synthesis. Natural ingredients that have proven effectiveness in treating scars problems include AHAs, Aloe vera extract, Soybean oil, Rosehip oil, Gotu kola extract and etc. |
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3. Exfoliation |
Using exfoliation on a regular basis helps reduce acne scarring. Choose an exfoliant with a low percentage of salicylic acid (BHA) to improve skin condition. Using it for 1 to 3 times per week over an extended period of time will show results. |
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Use an oil free sun protection with SPF 15 or greater helps reduce acne scars. As acne scars will continue to deepen in color from sunlight. |
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5. Makeup |
Keep makeup as light as possible or use makeup only when absolutely necessary. It is crucial to find a non-irritating and gentle product to use. Avoid waterproof cosmetics – which require a solvent to remove them. Solvents are harsh petro-chemicals which causes dryness. |
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Information on:
AHA/BHA Treatments
AHA/BHA treatments which works to exfoliate accumulation of dead skin cells, unclog pores, improve circulation and aid in the natural process of skin cell regeneration. AHA/BHA treatments are highly effective and suitable for anyone needing a instant radiant and smooth skin complexion. There is only one BHA (beta hydroxy acid) and that is salicylic acid, but there are a variety of AHAs. The five major types of AHAs that show up in skin-care products are glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, and tartaric acids. Of these, the most commonly used and most effective AHAs are glycolic and lactic acids. Both of these have the ability to penetrate the skin, plus they have the most accumulated research on their functionality and benefit for skin. Combining these treatments with the use of Vitamin A at home gives ultimate results, because exfoliants such as AHAs and BHA primarily affect the surface of the skin (epidermis) or the lining of the pore by actually ungluing or dissolving layers of skin cells. In contrast, retinoids affects the lower layers of skin (dermis), where new skin cells are produced. Retinoids actually communicate with a skin cell as it is being formed, telling it to develop normally instead of developing as a sun-damaged or genetically malformed skin cell.
Benefits
- Re-texture the skin
- Stimulate cell renewal for a healthier skin layer
- Natural skin brightener and softener
- Anti inflammatory, anti bacterial, anti microbial
- Tone and improve skin smoothes
The difference between AHA and BHA's
- AHA (glycolic acid usually) exfoliates the surface layers of your skin...clears away dead skin cells that can stick to sebum and clog pores and generally give your skin a dull appearance.
BHA (salycic acid) exfoliates the actual pore, meaning it loosens all the "junk" in them so the bacteria can be zapped easier by topicals such as benzoyl peroxide.
Together, the combo of AHA/BHA and BP has been an unbeatable combo for my very mild acne.
Microdermabrasion
Microdermabrasion can achieve dramatic results, but it is highly dependent on the skill of the therapist. For the best results, it is generally recommended get a series of treatments. Your therapist should be able to recommend the number that is appropriate for your skin type and condition. A typical protocal is six treatments about 10 to 14 days apart. It is essential that you use sun protection after the treatment. And depending on your skin and what the therapist recommends, exfoliating treatments used prior may enhance results.
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Common Questions:
- What makes a scar red in color?
Initially, all scars are red because when the body starts to heal, it produces an over abundance of healing tissue and new cells. An increased number of blood vessels are formed to feed the healing tissue and new cells. This increases blood flow that prompts the discoloration. - Vitamin E has often been touted as being beneficial to making a scar less visible. Is this true?
Many studies have now shown that vitamin E does nothing to a scar. While Vitamin E will not cause harm to a scar, it is recommended that they not be used during the first two weeks after the wound occurs. - Are some people more prone to developing scars than others?
There is a possibility that darker skinned people have a higher risk of developing keloids than people with lighter skin. Further, based on medical history, some people may develop more problematic scars. Problem scarring can also be caused by improper wound care and further injury to the wound. Location of the injury, poor nutrition, skin coloration, and age are also elements that can add to problematic scarring.
SENSITIVITY:
Appearance/accompanied by:
Hyper-sensitive, photo-sensitive, broken capillary, dilates capillaries, allergy, rosacea, rashes, couperose, erythema, spider vein and eczema
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What’s Happening:
Sensitive skin is more of a condition than an actual skin type. We are all prone to skin sensitivity at some point in our life. The skin is protected against outside invaders by the skin immune system and the physical protection barrier. However, when the immune system reacts with a heightened response to certain stimuli or antigen, it causes skin inflammation or irritation. Some signs of sensitivity are thin and fine textured skin, dry and tight sensation, dryness, redness, itching, burning, flushing and stinging. Sensitive skin tends to be more fragile and it needs special, gentle care.
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Causes:
There are many unknown factors in the diagnosis of sensitive skin; inherited factors, gender, age and race differences in skin sensitivity. What is known is that individuals with sensitive skin seem to have several unique skin attributes that affect their immune system and the skin physical protection barrier.
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1. |
Weakened immune system |
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The increase or irregular activities of Langerhan Cells, T cells and immune B cells. Resulting in an overall inability to tackle conditions and irritations as they arise |
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Langerhan cell is charged with the responsibility of locating foreign bodies such as viruses and bacteria; and carrying these foreign bodies to the cells that will destroy them. |
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T cell produces the auto immune response and effectively amplifies the amount of allergens to fool the body into considering an imminent threat. |
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T cell produces the auto immune response and effectively amplifies the amount of allergens to fool the body into considering an imminent threat. The overproduction of a protein called immunoglobulin E (IgE) by immune B cells will release excessive amount of granules and powerful chemical mediators (histamine and cytokines) that trigger allergic reaction and cause skin sensitive. |
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Other factors that weakened the immune system includes UV radiation, overdosing on sugar, excess alcohol, food allergens, too much fat, air pollution or stress. |
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2. |
Weakened skin physical protection barrier |
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This protection layers are formed by stratum corneum (the outermost layer of epidermis), lipid layer (sebum produced by sebaceous glands), and the low hostile pH (acid-mantel condition of the skin) which provide physical defense against invasion. |
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A wide variety factors that contribute in weakening of this barrier includes:- |
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Dry (insufficient sebum) and dehydrated (insufficient water) skin condition. The skin horny layer is being protected by sebum and water – a hydro-lipid film which is slightly acidic where it creates an ideal surface ecology to protect skin against invasion. |
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Heavy or over usage of harsh acne treatment such as hydrogen peroxide, retinoic acid, bexachlorophene, AHAs and BHA and skin resurfacing will cause over exfoliating and thinning of the epidermis and weakening the skin protection barrier. |
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Other environment factors such as prolonged sun exposure, air pollution or excess humidity. |
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About Sensitivity:
1. Knowing what allergens and irritants triggers your skin sensitivity will help to treat and prevent sensitive skin problem • Allergens – when a person is allergic to an ingredient.
• Irritants – where an ingredient is irritating but the person not truly allergy. Common skin irritants are Sorbic acid, Formaldehyde and formalin, 4-tert-Butylphenol, menthol and peppermint, and etc. All these are found in cosmetics or skin care products.
2. People who complaint of frequent rashes to specific skin care products are most commonly allergic to fragrances, preservatives, or coloring ingredients.
3. Dry skin is more prone to sensitive as the sebaceous glands produce less sebum which helps protect skin from irritants.
4. Signs of sensitive skin:-
• Skin is thin and fine textured. It often feels tingly, tight, or uncomfortable without any visible signs of stress.
• Reacts quickly to both hot and cold temperatures.
• Sunburns and windburns easily.
• Often dry, and prone to allergic reactions.
• Visible surface veins and broken capillaries.
• Become red and blotchy after contact with some detergents, fragrances, or alcohols that are used on the skin.
• Easily get irritated by chemicals in some skin care products and cosmetics.
• Often have sensations of itching, burning, redness, flushing, and stinging.
5. There are 2 profiles of sensitive skin:-
Rosacea:-
• A common skin problem affecting 3 times higher probability in women than men.
• Fair skin individuals are more prone to rosacea than those with dark skin.
• Result in a wide range of manifestations from the tendency to easily blush to severe disfiguration. It flares up with exposure to the sun and is also sensitive to heat, cold, excess humidity or dryness.
Dermatitis or eczema:-
• A board term used to describe dry, itchy skin inflammations. Early symptoms may be red, blistered or oozing. With time the affected areas can become scaly, brown and thickened.
• The 4 common types of eczema or dermatitis:-
- Atopic dermatitis – caused by dry sensitive skin which over reacts to certain allergens
- Contact dermatitis – caused by direct contact with an irritating material to which an individual is allergic or hypersensitive to.
- Seborrheic dermatitis – red scaly rash that occurs in areas of excessive sebum production such as the face and chest.
- Actinic dermatitis – sensitivity to sunlight exposure.
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If left untreated this problem may further develop to:-
Aging • A dry and fine textured skin is prone to fine lines or premature aging.
Discoloration • Excessive melanin is being produced to protect the sensitize skin area when skin contacts with sunlight
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Treatment:
Sensitive skins need to be treated with caution and the skins stratum layer (ph levels) need to be reinforced. Begin by introducing one product per week into the clients protocol. Cleanser, repairing balm or serum, barrier protector.
For ultimate results.
Step 1. Introduce homecare one at a time and introduce Max 7 treatment in salon. One per week (but twice will see faster results)
Step 2. After one month if skin look stronger book the client in for an SOS treatment series.
Step 3. Great if you can have four facials one week apart for a month, then every six weeks.
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Homecare:
1. Proper skin care routine
• Always inspect the full ingredients list for any skin care products that you plan to have. Choose products that do not contain potential allergens and irritants such as artificial fragrances and coloring, PABA sun protections, lanolin, propylene glycol and ethanol.
• It is also recommended to test a new skin care product on a small area of skin and see if there are any reactions before you use it over larger areas of your skin.
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Steps |
Remarks |
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1. Cleansing |
Rinse well after using cleansers, choose a cleanser which is mild and soap free so they do not remove healthy sebum from the skin. A cream or lotion cleanser is generally better than a foaming one. Don’t over wash your face. Temperature of the water should be tepid; neither hot nor cold. |
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2. Serum & moisturizer & masque |
Look for products that helps strengthen skin barrier, anti irritants, increase skin immunity, calm skin irritations, and excellent repairing skin capability. Natural ingredients that have proven effectiveness in treating sensitive skin includes ceramides, multiple vitamins, apricot kernel oil, algae (seaweed) extract, promegranate extract, and etc. |
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3. Exfoliation |
Be mindful of exfoliants. Shorten the duration for the first few applications. |
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Choose a light weight sun protection with at least SPF 30 and PA++. Avoid PABA contain sun protection! |
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5. Makeup |
Keep makeup as light as possible or use makeup only when absolutely necessary. It is crucial to find a non-irritating and gentle product to use. Avoid waterproof cosmetics – which require a solvent to remove them. Solvents are harsh petro-chemicals which causes dryness. |
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6. Facial treatment |
Your facial treatment should be less massage, less extraction, and avoid hot treatments! |
2. Promote healthy lifestyle
• Ensure diet rich in nuts, grains, vegetables, vitamin A, B, D and E (such as meat, chicken liver, cod liver oil and cheese), and low in saturated fatty foods
• Maintain healthy lifestyle such as drink plenty of water, regular exercise, stress management, quit smoking, control alcohol, spice and caffeine intakes, and get sufficient sleep!
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Information on:
MAX 7 Treatments
LED (Light Emitting Diode) technology triggers the body to convert light energy into cell energy. ATP (Adenosine TriPhoshate) is a source of energy for most metabolic processes in the body. LED light therapy stimulates the release of ATP in the cells thus prompting an increase in cell metabolism, a key factor in rejuvenating and repairing the skin at the cellular level. Because there is little or no heat generated from LED, there is no risk of tissue damage. Optimal results will require a series of LED light therapy treatments.
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Common Questions:
- Can sensitive skin be inherited?
A number of the skin diseases and conditions associated with sensitive skin are known or believed to run in families. They include eczema, psoriasis, acne and rosacea. Irritation from a reaction to skin care, cosmetic, or household product is not inherited











