AGING

APPEARANCE

Does anybody really look forward to growing older? Growing older is one thing, but LOOKING older is entirely another! There may not be a lot we can do to stop the hands of time, however there is no need to wear our age on our face. Aging gracefully should encompass not only looking healthy and vibrant, but feeling as good as you look. It may sound corny, but it is a fact that true beauty emanates from the inside. It comes from feeling good about yourself, taking the best possible care of yourself, loving who you are and what you do, and feeling confident and secure. Maybe you're in your 20s or 30’s or early 40s and you think you can't possibly have (gulp) aging skin yet. Well, you're wrong. Your skin's 'youthfulness' has less to do with age than how it's been treated, so if exposed to sun, smoke and stress, your skin will start ‘acting old,’ losing collagen, glow and elasticity. Lines will develop and pores can seem more pronounced. It's easier to prevent damage than to repair it but the good news is you CAN reverse skin damage. Don’t forget the sunscreen. As we all know the sun is responsible for a whopping 80% of skin aging and don’t Smoke. Smoking is the 2nd biggest cause of skin damage after sun exposure, because nicotine constricts blood vessels and decreases the flow of oxygen to the skin and also reduces the body’s ability to absorb vitamin C. With stress quickly gaining on the sun and smoking as the major contributor to aging.

Biology of ageing

Most of us would like to live forever but unfortunately, it's just not possible. Due to a combination of genetics and the effects of the environment on our bodies, we gradually wear out.

But how does ageing happen? As cells and body tissues go about their business – reproducing, staying alive, doing whatever specialist jobs they are programmed to do – they undergo damage from a wide range of sources. The damage can come from outside or it can come from within, from the by-products of metabolism within the cell itself. The cell can fight back, using its own mechanisms to limit the damage, but these mechanisms aren't perfect.

Cells can only function within a very controlled environment. They need the right temperature, pH and chemical composition of fluids to survive. Over time the body has developed systems for maintaining this environment – kidneys to filter wastes, lungs to keep oxygen coming, skin to stop fluid loss by evaporation, and so on.

But it's an uphill battle. Skin is exposed to ultraviolet light, to chemicals, and to extremes of temperature. Lungs are exposed to toxins in the air like cigarette smoke and inhaled chemicals, and other organs are exposed to toxins that are ingested and absorbed into the bloodstream.

LOOKS LIKE

Sagging, dull, lack of tone and texture, age spots and lines. Lined, tired and early signs of aging.

WHATS HAPPENING

Aging can be broken down into three primary causes: genetic aging, environmental aging and myo-aging. For years, genetic aging was thought to be the main contributor to the aging process. But we now know that’s not the case for most people. Genetic aging occurs when our skin’s cells begin to degenerate, and the time it takes for these cells to begin to wear out is determined by our DNA. However, other factors, like improper care and environmental aging, play active roles in accelerating the aging process.

When it comes to environmental aging factors, the list goes on and on—from sun, wind, rain and airborne pollutants to medications, smoking, alcohol and poor diet choices, and more. These causes of aging can be seen as “good news/bad news” situations. When it comes to genetic aging, the bad news is that we can do little to change our inheritance; the good news is that it only accounts for about 30 percent of our skin’s aging. The bad news with environmental aging is that it accounts for nearly 70 percent of the aging process; the good news is that this is where people have the most control. We have the choice to protect our skin from the sun, eat a healthy diet, nourish our skin with home care products and see an esthetician monthly for professional facial and body care, etc.

A new frontier in our fight against time is myo-aging. This refers to the repeated muscle movements in our faces that, over time, create permanent creases in our skin. Injectables like Botox, which paralyses the muscles in creased facial areas, have become all the rage in dermatologists’ offices nationwide. Cosmetic chemists have taken on the challenge to treat myo-aging topically with ingredients that help muscles fully de-contract, reduce lactic acid build-up within muscles and fill facial lines and creases to soften their appearance.

Once you understand the causes of aging, you can work with your clients to find the best ways to fight it based on their needs.

Research shows that there are, in fact, two distinct types of aging. Aging caused by the genes we inherit is called intrinsic (internal) aging. The other type of aging is known as extrinsic (external) aging and is caused by environmental factors, such as exposure to the sun’s rays.

Intrinsic aging, also known as the natural aging process, is a continuous process that normally begins in our mid-20s. Within the skin, collagen production slows, and elastin, the substance that enables skin to snap back into place, has a bit less spring. Dead skin cells do not shed as quickly and turnover of new skin cells may decrease slightly. While these changes usually begin in our 20s, the signs of intrinsic aging are typically not visible for decades. Genes control how quickly the normal aging process unfolds.

Diet and lifestyle play a big part in skin health. Today’s society is full of fast foods and sugars with little nutritional value. Stress and free radicals create all sorts of unnecessary cell breakdown.

Extrinsic aging, a number of extrinsic, or external, factors often act together with the normal aging process to prematurely age our skin. Most premature aging is caused by sun exposure. Other external factors that prematurely age our skin are repetitive facial expressions, gravity, sleeping positions, and smoking.

The Sun. Without protection from the sun’s rays, just a few minutes of exposure each day over the years can cause noticeable changes to the skin. Freckles, age spots, spider veins on the face, rough and leathery skin, fine wrinkles that disappear when stretched, loose skin, a blotchy complexion, actinic keratoses (thick wart-like, rough, reddish patches of skin), and skin cancer can all be traced to sun exposure.

“Photoaging” is the term dermatologists use to describe this type of aging caused by exposure to the sun’s rays. The amount of photoaging that develops depends on: 1) a person’s skin colour and 2) their history of long-term or intense sun exposure. People with fair skin who have a history of sun exposure develop more signs of photoaging than those with dark skin. In the darkest skin, the signs of photoaging are usually limited to fine wrinkles and a mottled complexion.

Photoaging occurs over a period of years. With repeated exposure to the sun, the skin loses the ability to repair itself, and the damage accumulates. Scientific studies have shown that repeated ultraviolet (UV) exposure breaks down collagen and impairs the synthesis of new collagen. The sun also attacks our elastin. Sun-weakened skin ceases to spring back much earlier than skin protected from UV rays. Skin also becomes loose, wrinkled, and leathery much earlier with unprotected exposure to sunlight.

While it may seem that the signs of photoaging appear overnight, they actually lie invisible beneath the surface of the skin for years. UV photography enables us to see the damage accumulating beneath the surface of the skin years before the signs of photoaging appear. Most people are surprised by the amount of photoaging that the UV camera shows. To see actual patient photographs that show: 1) what is visible to the naked eye and 2) what damage lies beneath the surface, visit:

Facial Expressions. If you perform facial exercises to maintain a youthful-looking appearance, it is time to stop. Repetitive facial movements actually lead to fine lines and wrinkles. Each time we use a facial muscle, a groove forms beneath the surface of the skin, which is why we see lines form with each facial expression. As skin ages and loses its elasticity, the skin stops springing back to its line-free state, and these grooves become permanently etched on the face as fine lines and wrinkles.

Gravity. Gravity constantly pulls on our bodies. Changes related to gravity become more pronounced as we age. In our 50s, when the skin’s elasticity declines dramatically, the effects of gravity become evident. Gravity causes the tip of the nose to droop, the ears to elongate, the eyelids to fall, jowls to form, and the upper lip to disappear while the lower lip becomes more pronounced.

Sleeping Positions. Resting your face on the pillow in the same way every night for years on end also leads to wrinkles. Called sleep lines, these wrinkles eventually become etched on the surface of the skin and no longer disappear when the head is not resting on the pillow. Women, who tend to sleep on their sides, are most likely to see these lines appear on their chin and cheeks. Men tend to notice these lines on the forehead since they usually sleep with the face pressed face down on the pillow. People who sleep on their backs do not develop these wrinkles since their skin does not lie crumpled against the pillow.

Smoking. Cigarette smoking causes biochemical changes in our bodies that accelerate aging. Research shows that a person who smokes 10 or more cigarettes a day for a minimum of 10 years is statistically more likely to develop deeply wrinkled, leathery skin than a nonsmoker. It also has been shown that people who smoke for a number of years tend to develop an unhealthy yellowish hue to their complexion. Additionally, a study conducted in 2002 showed that facial wrinkling, while not yet visible, can be seen under a microscope in smokers as young as 20.

These signs can be greatly diminished, and in some cases avoided, by stopping smoking. Even people who have smoked for many years, or smoked heavily at a younger age, show less facial wrinkling and improved skin tone when they quit smoking.

Comprehensive sun protection includes:

• Avoiding deliberate tanning, including use of indoor tanning devices.
• Staying out of the sun between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m., when the sun’s rays are the strongest.
• Wearing protective clothing, such as a wide-brimmed hat and long sleeves, when outdoors during the day.
• Applying sunscreen year round. Sunscreen should be broad spectrum (offers UVA and UVB protection) and have a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 15 or higher. Sunscreen should be applied 20 minutes before going outdoors to all skin that will be exposed. It should be reapplied after sweating or being in water.

What are free radicals (oxidants) & why are they so bad for skin?

Free radicals are unstable molecules that are produced when cells burn oxygen for energy. If left unchecked, free radicals cause cumulative and irreversible damage to our cells, bodies and skin. The result? Wrinkles, age spots, blemishes and other skin problems. Poor diet, stress, meats, sugar, alcohol, cosmetics, household cleaners, cigarette and cigar smoke, pollution, pesticides, radiation (from sources such as cell phones), and even paint are all sources of free radicals.

Free radicals are by-products of metabolism, consisting of oxygen molecules that are missing an electron. These are very destructive because they take electrons from other molecules, destabilising them and damaging vital tissues like proteins, membranes and DNA.

Free radicals would do a whole lot more except that the body has evolved ways of dealing with them – enzymes that break them down, and other substances that 'mop' them up by donating the missing electron. These substances are called antioxidants. (Another name for the process of taking an electron from another molecule is 'oxidation', hence substances that stop this from happening are called antioxidants.)

Many antioxidants are vitamins found in fruit and vegetables, which is why vitamins help prevent degenerative diseases such as heart disease and cancer. But antioxidants don't stop the damage altogether. Free radicals can damage cell membranes, organelles like mitochondria (the tiny factories inside cells that produce energy) and important proteins like enzymes. They can also damage the cell's DNA, which is especially serious because DNA is the genetic blueprint of the cell that programs its functions. Knock out the DNA and the cells can't function or reproduce.

Fortunately the cell does have repair mechanisms that will help fix the damage. One of the reasons we do live a relatively long time compared to other animals is that we have very low rates of oxidation, plus powerful antioxidant enzymes, DNA-repair enzymes and an excellent immune system. However, it's not perfect and the older we get, the more the cell damage accumulates.

Programmed to destruct

Even if a cell could repair itself completely – and avoid damage from toxins, infections, heat and cold – it wouldn't last indefinitely. Cells are programmed at a certain stage to self-destruct.

At the end of every chromosome are specialised stretches of DNA called telomeres. After each cell division, the telomeres shorten, and when they get to a certain length (after about 50 divisions), they trigger cell death.

Because free radicals come from so many sources, there is virtually no way we can avoid them. And free radical damage accumulates as we age. “Age spots,” those brown unsightly spots that form under the skin as we age, are accumulations of lipofuscin, which is the result of free radical damage.

GLYCATION

Glycation is a process by which sugar enters the bloodstream and bonds to vital skin proteins like collagen and elastin, speeding skin aging.

OXIDATION

A freshly-cut apple turns brown, a bicycle fender becomes rusty and a copper penny suddenly turns green. What do all of these events have in common? They are all examples of a process called oxidation. Oxidation is the interaction between oxygen molecules and all the different substances they may contact, from metal to living tissue.

Sometimes oxidation is not such a bad thing, as in the formation of super-durable anodised aluminum. Other times oxidation can be destructive, such as the rusting of an automobile, the spoiling of fresh fruit or aging of skin (destruction of skin structures by Free Radicals).

Oxidation is any chemical reaction. The oxidation is a transfer of electrons.

So ultimately, oxidation is when matter is exposed to oxygen and it changes from its original state.

Oxidation or free radical formation plays a pivotal role in the cross-linking of collagen. This is what happens:

• 1.  The atoms of human tissue begin to decay, or lose electrons. This results in a deficiency of electron.
• 2.  The atom attempts to regain its electrical balance by stealing one or more electrons from neighbouring atoms.
• 3.  This, in turn, creates another atom that has a deficiency of electron. The atom tries to steal electron from another atom.
• 4.  The result is a chain reaction in which atoms are changing their structures and forming bonds that would not otherwise occur.
• 5.  The net effect is a chaos of cross-linking collagen fibers, revealed on the skin's surface as wrinkles. Repetition of this imperfect skin rebuilding causes wrinkles.

PHYSICAL EFFECTS OF AGING

There are four major reasons to WHY the skin looks older as we age:

1. Oxidation of the skin cells - Oxidation can produce Free Radical cells (cells that have lost an electron and begin to damage other cells by stealing electrons from them leading to the disintegration of that cell) which creates a chain reaction that damages skin formation and structure.
2. Wrinkle formation from muscle contration - Continuous movement of our muscles in the same spot over a period of time causes creasing. Over time creasing gets worse causing a wrinkle, fold or line.
3. Wrinkle formation from muscle contration - Continuous movement of our muscles in the same spot over a period of time causes creasing. Over time creasing gets worse causing a wrinkle, fold or line.
4. Dead skin formation - Dead skin works like dry clay on the earth, it creates a hardened crust that does not let fluid in or out readily, making the skin look dull, causes congestion and stops vital ingredients reaching their destination.

So WHAT can be done?

Our research into fighting wrinkle formation has concluded: Firstly you need to apply antioxidants of the highest quality one can find and afford (Dr. Brown has claimed that it costs $4 million to produce a gram of telomerase). Secondly you need to apply a wrinkle relaxing product at the site of the wrinkle contraction (whether cream or injectable), and thirdly you need to fill in the wrinkle depth with a filler (injectables are currently the only product on the market that does this - although Payot is currently in trial to produce this in a cream).

At Skin Fitness we have three products available to help resolve these problems and a doctor on hand to help with the last. 1. We use Payot’s AOX to fight oxidation with it’s antioxidant properties and unique telomere repair system, to preserve and regenerate your skin. 2. Payot’s Rides Relax which reduces skin contraction. 3. Exfoliation to remove dead skin formation. Now you have the perfect system to combat skin aging. (Using only one of these aids will still give great results, although alternating AOX and Rides Relax will give optimum anti-aging results).

HOW TO REPAIR

Skincare with muscle relaxers are the new breakthrough in anti aging skin care this decade. Argireline complex attempts to mimic that same Botox action by blocking the action of the protein, similar to smokers craving patches. It doesn't destroy the protein, like Botox does, but instead simply keeps it from connecting to the cell and turning on the muscle contraction. The palimtoyl peptide, meanwhile, works on producing more collagen. Exfoliation is vital due to the slow down in cell turnover, which happens as we age. Also skin supplements are useful - Certain vitamins, classified as antioxidants, help support the skin's ability to rejuvenate itself and to fight off damage caused by sun, smoke, pollution, etc. For a more complete impact, take your vitamins internally and topically! Vitamin C is a powerhouse nutrient for skin because it helps your body manufacture collagen. Collagen gives skin it's firmness and youthful tone. Vitamin E helps keep the skin moist and supple and promotes healing. Don't open up Vit E capsules and pour them all over your skin! These molecules are too large and only hydrate the skin’s surface. You need to have a good delivery system.

Diet

Care enough about yourself to select the finest quality foods, with a variety of nutrients. Avoid packaged, processed and refined foods. They steal health and radiance. Your diet should be colourful: lots of fruits and veggies and top quality proteins (available from legumes, soy, yogurts) to help build strong, firm skin.

Vitamins: Both inside and out

Nutritional therapy can boost our capacity for youthfulness beyond that of food. In many cases, to ingest a therapeutic amount of a nutrient in food form would mean eating unrealistically large quantities of certain foods. Supplementation is an excellent way to ensure there are no minimal deficiencies in the diet and boost the availability of nutrients to the body.

Certain vitamins, classified as antioxidants, help support the skin's ability to rejuvenate itself and to fight off damage caused by sun, smoke, pollution, etc. For a more complete impact, take your vitamins internally and externally! Stabilised vitamin C has been shown to reverse signs of aging caused by sun damage when applied directly to the skin. Don't settle for a cheap substitute, there are none. Traditional forms of Vitamin C are difficult to stabilise and bargain varieties are simply a waste of money.

Vitamin C is a powerhouse nutrient for skin because it helps your body manufacture collagen. Collagen is a protein found in the dermal layer of the skin that gives the skin it's firmness and youthful tone.

The newest breakthrough in Vitamin C is Ester-C (calcium ascorbate). This form of Vitamin C has many advantages over ascorbic acid. Available in capsules and in powder form, it is beginning to creep into the market in skin care products such as moisturisers and serums. Look out for new products featuring this powerhouse nutrient.

Vitamin E helps keep the skin moist and supple and promotes healing. Don't open up E capsules and pour them all over your skin! For many they are too oily, but even if that is not the case for you, scientists have improved the availability of vitamin E by creating formulations that are more soluble for the skin.

Alpha AND Beta Hydroxy Acids

Heard about those alpha hydroxy acids? These acids, derived from a number of fruits, milk and sugar cane, literally eat away at the skin's surface. The result: they eat away at the fine lines, minimising their appearance, making your skin smoother and more youthful. They also unclog pores, reducing the likelihood of breakouts.

The world of alpha hydroxy acids is a very confusing one, with various manufacturers claiming all sorts of percentages and strengths that may or may not be true or effective. My personal choice: a water soluble, clear gel formulation that is gentle enough not to cause irritation, yet effective enough to cause a noticeable difference. It is time released so as to minimise the likelihood of irritation. This formulation utilises lactic acid, derived from milk, the mildest and least drying of the alpha hydroxides.

The Beta Hydroxides are similar in effect to the Alpha Hydroxides, however they are less irritating to the skin. This makes them an excellent choice for skin suffering from acne, since acne is a source of inflammation, which can be further irritated by the harsher alpha hydroxides. Salicylic Acid is the most common of the Beta Hydroxides, and it is effective in keeping the pores unclogged while sloughing off those dead skin cells. The most popular beta hydroxy on the market is Salicylic Acid, which is the main ingredient in Rescue Gel.

Water

It seems obvious, but drink lots of water! Skin cells are the last to receive hydration, and they need it desperately to ward off dry lines and wrinkles. Cells dry out long before thirst sets in, so be mindful of your water intake. Your body is composed of 65-70% water, and if that level is not maintained, the homeostasis (balance) is disrupted, and toxins become more concentrated in the system.

What kind of water? I recommend purified, by a process called reverse osmosis, or distilled. Distilled can leach impurities and excess minerals from the body. If this concerns you, add mineral drops to your store-bought distilled water. Remember, water is only as good as its source, and with Spring water we can't always be sure of that.

Sleep

Sleep is something we take for granted, something we seem to have no time for. Sleep replenishes, rejuvenates, and restores. Insufficient sleep does more than make you cranky. Nightime is the best time to deliver nutrition to the skin. At rest, your body is not tending to other activities, so it is able to focus on the absorption and redistribution of fluids it ignored while you were engaged in your hectic day. Sleep at least 7 1/2 hours a day. Schedule it if you have to. Really.

Exercise

Those of us who do not work out regularly know that we should. Everyone tells us so. Does exercise promote youthfulness? Without question. It gets the blood circulating, delivers more oxygen into the lungs and boosts the metabolism. By boosting circulation, more nutrition is driven into the cells, and the skin cells are no exception.

What kind of exercise is the best? The kind that you will realistically engage in at least a few times during the week! Do SOMETHING, ANYTHING, at least 20 minutes a day. An exercise video at the very least. Invest in a treadmill or stationary bicycle. If you know you will never make it to the gym, at least you can watch TV or listen to your favourite music right at home. No downtime travelling to and from the gym and you can do it with the kids right in the next room.

Researchers are telling us that even more important than exercise is weight lifting. Even a slight increase in muscle mass boosts metabolism long term (even while you sleep!) and that means extra calories burned, even when you are not working out.

Sun

First and foremost: minimal, and always protected, SUN EXPOSURE. As a beach lover, this is one of my least favourite commandments, and if there were a way around it I would have found it by now. The truth of the matter is that researchers conservatively estimate that 80%-90% of all visible signs of aging come from sun exposure. More so than smoking, drinking or any of that other bad stuff. Get some great tips on how to handle the summer sun without paying for it big-time in sunspots and wrinkles.

INCREASE

with supplements like evening primrose oil or 2 tablespoons of safflower oil a day. Not getting enough EFA’s compromises the health of the keratinocyte cell membrane thus resulting in low epidermal lipids. Corrections are made of these extrinsic (developed) causes by changes in the client’s work/play lifestyle. Protective creams with a high lipid content: are the true protectives. They are chemically similar to the skin's own surface film and only small quantities need to be patted on (not massaged in). Inferior creams must be avoided, though, because their low quality raw materials may be comedogenic and cause harm, particularly on oily skin. Vitamin E cream generally contains less than 1% vitamin E oil!

INTERNALLY

Symptoms of menopause such as insomnia, irritability and joint pain may be addressed internally with natural solutions such as:

TOPICALLY

Apricot Oil, Evening Primrose Oil and Borage Seed Oil protect the skin’s natural barrier, increasing moisture retention.

• Papaya enzymes gently exfoliate to reveal brighter, softer skin.
• Soy and Wild Yam Extracts, natural plant based estrogens.
• Clove Flower and Iris Extracts tone and firm skin.
• Glycosaminoglycans inhibit collagen breakdown.
• Shiitake Mushroom Extract conditions and firms skin.
• Shea Butter super hydrates to restore skin’s vibrancy.
• Chaparral Extract inhibits facial hair growth, clinically proven to reduce facial hair growth by 22% in 12 weeks.

AVOID

Alcohol, coffee, sun, salt, air-conditioning and medications like diuretics etc. These element have an extremely negative effect on your skin. Each of these have water drawing properties removing the much needed water from the skin.

Too much exfoliation impairs the skins natural defense layer. Exposing it to external aggressions such as air conditioning and heat.

WOW

One glass of water shuts down midnight hunger pangs for almost 100% of dieters. Lack of water is the #1 trigger of daytime fatigue. Preliminary research indicates that 8-10 glasses of water a day could significantly ease back and joint pain for up to 80% of sufferers. A mere 2% drop in body water can trigger fuzzy short-term memory, trouble with basic math, and difficulty focusing on the computer screen or on a printed page. Eat foods rich in EFA’s such as salmon (also a proven brain food), Flaxseed oil, Nuts and oils, Avocado, Sardines, Anchovies, Tuna and green vegetables. Plant inside room absorbs carbon dioxide (skin dehydrator) and increases oxygen in the air which helps balance HO2 in skin. Avoid hot showers, the hotter the water the more dehydrating to the skin. Like attracts like.

Eat to beat wrinkles

You need to eat a well-balanced diet to have healthy looking skin. In particular, foods that are rich in antioxidants help neutralise the effects of free radicals that attack your skin's collagen and elastic tissue, forcing them to lose firmness. These five foods are fantastic for supporting the health of your skin:

1. Blueberries: They're packed with powerful antioxidants called polyphenols. Berries are often treated with pesticides, so choose organic if possible.
2. Kale: Like other greens, kale is rich in the antioxidant lutein and contains iron, which transports oxygen to your skin, and vitamin A, which helps prevent premature wrinkling.
3. Red Capsicums: Red or dark orange vegetables are loaded with the antioxidant vitamins A and E and bioflavonoids, which help heal skin from within.
4. Salmon: Along with most cold-water fish, salmon are rich in omega-3 fatty acids, which hold off wrinkles by preventing inflammation and lubricating your skin.
5. Tomatoes: Tomatoes contain lycopene, a skin-friendly antioxidant that also is thought to reduce cancer risk. Your body can use lycopene better if the tomatoes are cooked.